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Nagano & Gifu: Tsumago & Magome Walk the Samurai Road Through the Kiso Mountains
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Nagano & Gifu: Tsumago & Magome Walk the Samurai Road Through the Kiso Mountains

Writer/Saori Matsui / Photos: Maki Hiramatsu, Nagiso Tourism Assoc.
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The information provided is current as of May 2026.

Published2026.06.01
Updated2026.06.24

About This Area

Tsumago & Magome, Nagano/Gifu

In the Edo period, the Nakasendo was one of the main highways connecting Edo (present-day Tokyo) to Kyoto — a journey of approximately 530 km. Along the route, post towns that still preserve their historic streetscapes remain, making it an ideal place to explore Japan's history on foot. The stretch between Tsumago-juku in Nagano and Magome-juku in Gifu spans approximately 9 km — about a 3-hour walk over mountain passes. Let's step into the footsteps of the samurai who once travelled this road.

Good to Know

The 'Magome-Tsumago Excursion Pass' grants unlimited travel on Kitaena Transport and Nagiso-machi Community Bus routes for 2 days at a great value. Available in English, you can also purchase a mobile ticket through transportation apps. When your legs tire, hop on a bus and explore the area at your own pace.

EXPERIENCES

What You Can Do Here

Relive the life of Edo-era travelers on foot
1

Relive the life of Edo-era travelers on foot

Walk the cobblestone slopes and rows of latticed townhouses, and you can almost feel the bustle of an Edo-era post town where people and goods once flowed. Away from the sounds of trains and cars, every step deepens the memory of your journey.

Hike between post towns through mountain scenery
2

Hike between post towns through mountain scenery

The old Nakasendo between Tsumago and Magome winds through forests, mountain streams, and passes. Surrounded by nature that shifts with every season, you'll feel the true essence of the Kiso mountains.

Savor the food culture rooted in post-town life
3

Savor the food culture rooted in post-town life

Gohei-mochi and local mountain ingredients — the food of Tsumago and Magome is practical and deeply flavorful, born to sustain weary travelers. Treat yourself to these local specialties as a reward after crossing the mountain pass.

Spot Details

1

Nagiso-machi MuseumーWakihonjin Okuya

3-min walk from Tsumago-bashi bus stop

Nagiso-machi MuseumーWakihonjin Okuya view 1
Nagiso-machi MuseumーWakihonjin Okuya view 2
Nagiso-machi MuseumーWakihonjin Okuya view 3

The residence of the Hayashi family, who served for generations as wakihonjin (sub-inn for feudal lords) and tonya (shipping agent). The current building was rebuilt in Meiji 10 (1877) after the ban on logging Kiso's five sacred trees was lifted, and was constructed entirely of hinoki cypress. On clear winter days, multiple beams of light filter through the lattice windows and stretch straight to the back of the irori hearth, painting a scene of breathtaking beauty.

Hours9:00–16:45 (last entry)
Closed2nd and 4th Thursdays
Fee¥800
PaymentCash, credit card, e-money, QR code
Phone0264-57-3322
Address2190 Azuma, Nagiso-machi
Access3-min walk from Tsumago-bashi bus stop
ParkingNone (use Tsumago-juku paid parking)
View details
2

Teahouse Ebiya

4-min walk from Tsumago-bashi bus stop

Teahouse Ebiya view 1
Teahouse Ebiya view 2

It began about half a century ago with serving tea to travelers resting under the eaves. The signature kuri-an shiruko (chestnut soup) is made with 100% chestnuts — its rich depth is impossible to resist. The anmitsu, using homemade azuki paste slowly simmered from small beans and handmade kanten jelly, is another signature not to miss.

Hours9:00–17:00
ClosedIrregular
Fee
PaymentCash, credit card, e-money, QR code
Phone0264-57-3054
Address2176-1 Azuma, Nagiso-machi
Access4-min walk from Tsumago-bashi bus stop
ParkingNone (use Tsumago-juku paid parking)
View details
3

Restaurant Magomeya

1-min walk from Magome bus stop

Restaurant Magomeya view 1
Restaurant Magomeya view 2

The specialties are Shinshu beef steak with melt-in-your-mouth richness, refined Magome salmon, and a sweeping view of Mt. Ena — the highest peak in Mino. In spring, the contrast of fresh green and mountain cherry blossoms adds beauty to every dish.

Hours11:00–14:00
ClosedWednesdays
Fee
PaymentCash, credit card, e-money, QR code
Phone0573-69-2211
Address4571-1 Magome, Nakatsugawa-shi
Access1-min walk from Magome bus stop
ParkingAvailable
View details
4

Ohmiya

8-min walk from Magome bus stop

Ohmiya view 1
Ohmiya view 2

In Magome, gohei-mochi has always been round — a tradition passed down through generations. The sauce recipe hasn't changed since the shop opened about half a century ago: walnuts carefully ground in a mortar, mixed with sesame, soy sauce, and sugar into a rich, sticky paste. Sweet, savory, fragrant, and simply satisfying.

Hours11:00–15:00
ClosedIrregular
Fee
PaymentCash only
Phone0573-69-2412
Address4308-1 Magome, Nakatsugawa-shi
Access8-min walk from Magome bus stop
ParkingNone
View details
5

Shimoogiiya

3-min walk from Magome bus stop

Shimoogiiya view 1
Shimoogiiya view 2

A souvenir shop stocked with Kiso folk crafts. 'Harukoma' — a traditional toy woven from straw that has been passed down in Magome — is said to welcome spring (happiness) into your home when placed facing the entrance. Each one has its own expression and character. May you find the one that speaks to you.

Hours9:00–17:00
ClosedOpen daily
Fee
PaymentCash, credit card, e-money, QR code
Phone0573-69-2106
Address4264 Magome, Nakatsugawa-shi
Access3-min walk from Magome bus stop
ParkingNone
View details
BONUS SPOTS

More to Explore

Extra spots worth a detour if your schedule allows

Terashita Townscape
6Town

Terashita Townscape

The first area in Tsumago where a preservation movement began. The modest townhouses feature subtle craftsmanship, and the original Edo-era architecture survives exactly as it was.

Ichikokutochi tateba-chaya
7Walk

Ichikokutochi tateba-chaya

An Edo-era roadside rest hut open as a free rest stop. Where ancient travelers once paused to catch their breath, you too can stop and feel the passage of time.

Otaki and Metaki Waterfalls
8Walk

Otaki and Metaki Waterfalls

Known as a setting in Eiji Yoshikawa's novel 'Miyamoto Musashi.' The twin streams flow side by side in quiet strength — a perfect detour along the highway walk.

Tsumago Castle Ruins
9Heritage

Tsumago Castle Ruins

A mountain castle that once guarded the southern Kiso valley; its earthworks and baileys still remain today. The panoramic view over Tsumago-juku and the Kiso mountains is exceptional.

ACCESS

Getting There

Getting to Nagoya

From TokyoTokaido Shinkansen — approx. 1 hr 30 min
From OsakaTokaido Shinkansenーapprox.50min

Nagoya to Tsumago & Magome

From Nagoya, the most convenient way to reach the Tsumago and Magome area is by the Limited Express Shinano. Buses connect from the nearest stations to each post town. The stretch between Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku is about 9 km — approximately 3 hours on foot — so walking between post towns like an Edo-era traveler is highly recommended.

To Tsumago:

Ltd. Express Shinano + Local BusJR Nagoya StationTsumago-juku (transfer at JR Nagiso Station)
DurationApprox. 1 hr 30 min
FareFrom ¥3,720
Booking / purchase
Station counter, ticket machine
Rental CarNagoyaTsumago-juku
DurationApprox. 1 hr 30 min
Fare
Booking / purchase

To Magome:

Ltd. Express Shinano + Local BusJR Nagoya StationMagome-juku (transfer at JR Nakatsugawa Station)
DurationApprox. 1 hr 20 min
FareFrom ¥3,870
Booking / purchase
Station counter, ticket machine
Highway BusNagoyaMagome-juku
DurationApprox. 1 hr 35 min
FareFrom ¥2,000
Booking / purchaseBus center counter, ticket machine
Rental CarNagoyaMagome-juku
DurationApprox. 1 hr 30 min
Fare
Booking / purchase
TRAVEL TIPS

Before You Go

Transport

Magome-Tsumago Excursion Pass

Enjoy unlimited travel on Kitaena Transport and Nagiso-machi Community Bus routes for 2 days. Available in English and purchasable as a mobile ticket through transportation apps.

IC Cards & Local Buses

IC cards such as Suica and PASMO, as well as credit cards, cannot be used on local buses in the Tsumago and Magome area. Board from the rear door and exit from the front. Pay with a ride ticket or cash when you alight.

Culture

Sightseeing Etiquette

The post-town streetscapes are designated Important Preservation Districts for Groups of Historic Buildings. Damaging structures or picking plants is prohibited. These are living communities — please do not trespass on private property or disturb residents.

Sightseeing

Evening Business Hours

Restaurants typically close around 3 PM and cafés around 5 PM. There are no early-morning shops, supermarkets, or convenience stores in the area, so if you plan to stay overnight, purchase breakfast in advance.

Cuisine

Local Food to Try

Don't miss gohei-mochi, oyaki, and soba — the staples that sustained highway travelers — along with mountain vegetable dishes and river fish cuisine unique to this mountain-ringed landscape.

Seasonal Japanese Sweets

Japanese sweets that developed to comfort weary travelers are a must. From early summer look for hoba-maki; in autumn, kuri-kinton (chestnut confection) and dried persimmons await.

Seasons

Best Season for Hiking

Spring and autumn, with their comfortable temperatures, are especially recommended for hiking. The cherry blossoms and autumn foliage along the old highway are not to be missed.

November 23rd Festival

On Labor Thanksgiving Day (November 23rd), Tsumago-juku hosts the annual 'Bunka Bunsei Fuzoku Emaki Procession,' bringing the post town to life with colorful Edo-era pageantry.

FAQ

Questions about Tsumago & Magome (Nagano / Gifu)

Access & Transport

How do I get to Tsumago from Nagoya?
Take the Limited Express Shinano from Nagoya to Nagiso Station (JR Chuo Line), then connect by local bus to Tsumago-juku. Total journey time is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes, from ¥3,720.
How do I get to Magome from Nagoya?
Take the Limited Express Shinano from Nagoya to Nakatsugawa Station, then connect by local bus to Magome-juku. Total journey time is approximately 1 hour 20 minutes, from ¥3,870. A highway bus from Nagoya is also available from ¥2,000.
Is there a pass for buses between Tsumago and Magome?
Yes. The Magome-Tsumago Excursion Ticket allows unlimited rides on Kitaena Kotsu and Nagiso Town community buses for 2 days. It is available with English support and can be purchased as a mobile ticket via a transit app.
Can I use IC cards on local buses in the Tsumago and Magome area?
No. Suica, PASMO, and other nationwide IC cards are not accepted. Credit cards are also not accepted. Board from the rear door, alight from the front, and pay in cash upon exit.

Sightseeing & Culture

How far is it to walk between Tsumago and Magome?
The old Nakasendo trail between Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku is approximately 9 km and takes about 3 hours on foot. The route passes forests, mountain streams, and a mountain pass.
What is the Nakasendo?
The Nakasendo was one of the major highways of the Edo period, connecting Edo (present-day Tokyo) at Nihonbashi to Kyoto at Sanjo Bridge — a total distance of approximately 530 km. Post towns along the route, including Tsumago and Magome, still preserve the atmosphere of that era.
Are Tsumago and Magome real communities or tourist recreations?
Both are nationally designated Important Preservation Districts where people still live. Visitors are asked not to damage buildings or pick plants, and to respect residents' privacy.
What can I see at the Waki-Honjin Okutani museum in Tsumago?
The Waki-Honjin Okutani is a historic residence that served as a secondary inn for feudal lords on the Nakasendo. The current building dates from 1877 and was constructed entirely in Japanese cypress. Open 9:00–16:45, closed 2nd and 4th Thursdays. Admission ¥800.

Food

What local food should I try in Tsumago and Magome?
Must-tries include gohei-mochi (rice cakes on skewers with a walnut-sesame-soy sauce glaze), oyaki (filled dumplings), soba, and river fish. In early summer look for houba-maki, and in autumn for kuri-kinton (chestnut sweets) and dried persimmons.
What is gohei-mochi?
Gohei-mochi is a traditional snack from the Kiso region — rice shaped onto a skewer and coated with a sauce of ground walnuts, sesame, soy sauce, and sugar, then grilled. In Magome, the traditional shape is round. It has a sweet, savory, and nutty flavor.
Are there convenience stores or supermarkets near Tsumago and Magome?
No. There are no convenience stores or supermarkets in the immediate area. If you are staying overnight, it is strongly recommended to purchase breakfast provisions in advance before arriving.

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